| Author |
Message |
    
Fal
| | Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 8:03 pm: | 
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What would be the best radio to buy, I do like to have SSB. (I have a 78XL for the moment)
- Grant XL, from unknown vendor, he claims it's perfect. This is to be seen after buying it.
- Grant LT, new.
- TR-296, new.
- TR-696, new.
The radio would get a Tune and Peak.
Vehicle is an older Range Rover, and since the body is aluminum, I can not use a mag mount.
Also since the sunroof, I can not use a solid mount on the roof.
For antenna, I use a 4' Firefly, mounted in front on a bracket between the headlight and the hood.
Would a Wilson 1000 be better ?
Use is as daily driver and lots of off road.
Also, since I'm most of the time on oxygen, I need to be able to reach out.
Thanks,
fredd |
Kc0gxz
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 1:18 am: |
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Fal
If you could give us an idea on how much you want to spend on a SSB radio, I'm sure you will be getting all kinds of suggestions on this forum.
Jeff, kc0gxz. |
Bruce
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 11:24 am: |
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Fal
I have a grant XL and if you want a leagal cb set i like mine. The radio has a very good receiver sounds great on the air and if you want to can be moded to your hearts content. Copper's price is as good as any ive seen |
Kc0gxz
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 11:59 am: |
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Fal
Bruce is absolutely right. If your Uniden 78XL has been good to you, stepping up to the Uniden Grant would be a wise choice.
Not only does Copper have them more than fairly priced, they will also make any modifications to your new radio that you request.
Jeff, kc0gxz. |
ryan
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 12:07 pm: |
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you could say screw it and get a magnum 257. not only will you have ssb, but am and FM too along with about 454 channels covering from 25.160-29.7mhz. and all with a simple jumper removal and a button reset. not to mention that little perk of it being a 30 watt radio |
Znut
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 10:19 pm: |
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Uniden radios are great.
About your antenna mount. Can't you put a mount similar to the one you are using which will mount by a door or window? How about the tire rack or bumper? |
Fal
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 12:22 am: |
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The problem solved itself today.
On the way back from my weekly trip to the hospital, I stopped in a CB shop in Dodge City, AL.
This shop had 3 brand new in the box Grant XL's for $130.00 each.
Yes, this is more expensive as a used Grant XL, but this is NIB and has 2 years warranty.
To make it complete, I also bought the Wilson 1000 antenna and an Aries power/SWR meter.
As for the antenna mount, I'm gonna try to figure out a way to install this Wilson 1000 in the roof.
The way the part is that screws under the roof, I believe I can get it between the roof skin and the sunroof carrier.
I was also thinking to keep the coax that is running to the front mount, in case the tree cover is expected to be low during off roading, I can switch back to the front mount Firefly and unscrew the Wilson from the roof, and switch the kabel connectores on the radio, does this makes any sence ?
Thanks for the help and advice.
fredd |
Mr_Rf
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 7:57 pm: |
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Way to go Fredd :-)
I know you will enjoy the XL, great radio! Remember, the key to acheiving the best system proformance is mounting it on the roof when possible, and good grounding.
Mounting the antenna as close to the center of the roof when possible makes the system radiate more efficiently due to the groud plane effects of the vehicle.
Grounding is very important to make your mobile installation consistant. When installing an antenna into the roof or other painted surfaces of the vehicle make sure the paint is removed down to the "bare metal" where the ground portion of the antenna mounts fits against the vehicle.
Hense:
1. For trunk mounts the set screws form the ground connection. Remove the paint where the screws tighten against the inside of the trunk lid. Remember to check them for proper tightness often and don't overtighten as most mounts lose their form and begin to fall off and lose set screws.
2. For roof mounts most mounts are designed to form a ground connection to the area just around the hole on the outside. Remove enough paint around the hole so that the metal portion of the antenna mount that mates with the vehicle body is in full contact with bare metal. Any paint under the mount will act like a insulated washer and possibly degrade antenna proformance.
3. L-brackets present the worst issues for grounding. They are notorious for loosening up over time and losing consistant ground. Again, clean the paint around each screw hole and use an "inside-outside" star washer between the L-bracket and the vehicle body at each mounting hole. The use of Lock washers against the screw head and star washers behind the mount is optimnal when there is enough space to do so.
4. Mag mounts are the most inconsistant form of mounting, and usually present problems as transmitter power is increased (linears, etc.).
Sorry for writing a book. lol I've done hundreds of mobile installations professionally over the years and know without a doubt that proper antenna grounding is a key contributing factor to system proformance.
Good Luck,
Mr_RF |
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