| Author |
Message |
    
Keithinatlanta
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 12:00 pm: | 
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Hey guys, which is better to use for my grounding rod, steel or copper pipe? Thanks. Also, if I take my post hole diggers and dig down four feet, will it work to take a 2 x 4 and hammer to tap it down the rest of the way?
Keith in Atlanta |
Ca346
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 1:18 pm: |
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A regular copper plated steel ground rod 8 feet long is the building code standard here in California. They are very cheap, and you can buy them at any hardware store. Ordinary copper pipe will not last due to corrosion, even if you could get it in the ground without breaking it.
Wait until the next rain storm and drive it in the ground the next day. I have several around the antenna farm here, and my son and I drove them in with one of us holding the rod and the other on a step ladder and a hammer. Pretty fast going... |
Dinker1
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 1:29 pm: |
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I would only use copper on account of rust, with the rust you will always have to be pouring water on it with maybe at times not all the time OK/ DEAN- |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 1:43 pm: |
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If you go that route it is better to use a galvanized ground rod,which in MI.is code for home electrical,they're about 10$. |
Keithinatlanta
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 2:32 pm: |
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Guys, I can buy the steel rod for $6 and the copper rod for $10. So it is not so much price as which one is better. We have wet spring time usually, dry summer and some wet fall and winter in Atlanta. But we do get a lot of violent storms in spring and summer. that is when you unplug everything and pray.
Keith |
Mr_Rf
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 4:27 pm: |
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Keith,
My opinions,
1. Keep ground wires as short as possible, as straight as possible, and any bends must be formed in a gradual curve...if lightning ever strikes it sharp bends just get blown away and do no good!
2. True "Copper-Clad" ground rods are the best all round (this comes from 20+ years experience in the commuunications industry).
3. If driving them is an issue, consider renting a hammer drill with a "ground rod driving attachment" from your local rental dealer...worth their weight in gold!!!! They will drive an 8' X 5/8" rod through rock on just about anything in minutes, and the attachment prevents you from damaging the end too badly.
3. If you're burying your rod totally underground, then;
a. dig a post hole or shovel two feet down;
b. drive the rod in the center of the hole and leave it out of the bottom of the hole 12" to 18";
c. after making and sealing the connections fill the hole with gravel just over the connections and dirt the rest of the way.
FYI...some people like to make it easy to inspect the connections in the future so some install a 4" to 12" diameter PVC pipe over the rod/connections with a screw on fitting at the top to allow easy visual inspection and access for repairs if PVC is the larger diameter. This also helps to redirect water away from the connection. Also, don't bother putting gravel in if you do this!
4. Either use single shot CAD-Welding fittings to make the connections (available at your local industrial electrical store) or;
4. A cheaper trick (what I call a homebrew weatherboot for underground ground rod connections) is to:
a. Buy a "LARGE" plastic jar of vaseline...one for each rod you bury;
b. Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of each jar just large enough to slide over the rods (remember to account for burred rod heads);
c. Drill a hole in the jar lids just large enough to slide the ground wires through.
d. As you have probably guessed by now, slide the jar of vaseline down over the rod, slip the lid up on the wire, install wire and clamps as close to the top of the rod as possible, and use a roll of 3M brand "Super+88" electrical tape to seal the lid to the jar to prevent it from sliding off.
Good luck |
Lowpowerhal
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 4:29 pm: |
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Keithinatlanta Buy a copper rod, Its a steel rod thats has a copper coating. Solid copper rod at 10' and 5/8 dia. would cost you about around $100.00 bucks, way to much money. Last time i bought a 10' 5/8 dia. copper coated ground rod was around $18.00 . As far as spending money , its the best investment you can do for yourself and your radios. If you like your hobbie take care of it and yourself. Hal |
Kiwikid
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 4:46 pm: |
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Hi Team,Keithinatlanta what type of grounding are you trying to accomplish?
For electrical grounding and to bleed off static a series of grounding rods would be better than just one.One or more rods at the base of the antenna and one or more rods at the closest point to the radio shack.Use a short flat braid copper cable strap between each rod and the device to be protected.
An RF ground requires a series of below earth frequency related copper radials or a copper ground mat of substaincial area either on or below the earth surface around the base of your antenna support.
Best Of DX
CEF195
Kiwi Kid |
Keithinatlanta
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2004 - 7:51 pm: |
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MANY THANKS everybody for the input. Now I know which way to go.
Keith in Atlanta |
Ozzie
| | Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 10:05 am: |
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Over the years I have found that a piece of 12 inch square stainless plate 1/8' thick works better than a 8ft copper rod. Why?? Simple maths shows that the plate actually has more surface area than the rod. Of course its dearer and harder to attach the strap to but.... |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Monday, January 05, 2004 - 12:03 am: |
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How about this,where I work I can get 4'x10'x.040 anodized aluminum sheeting,tempered,aircraft quality,very rigid,how about burying several around the base of the mast or tower,down say 4"?Bigbob |
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