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Message |
    
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 154
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 5:42 pm: | 
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Im going to be buying a new amp in a few days but i wanted to see what one of these brands of amp you guys like better.Ive owned 2 klv amps the 400 and the 500 both were good but they got over heated and blew up on me.so i thinking of a palomar amp.but the one i want i dont think copper sells.I want to but the palomar TX450 and i dont see it listed on the site. |
Crafter
Senior Member
Username: Crafter
Post Number: 1022
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 2:50 pm: |
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Ok, why leave Texas Star out of the running? Look at the 667v. |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 156
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 11:04 pm: |
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Didn't know copper sold texas star amps.Last time I looked they didn't.For some reason texas star amps are more money why is this?I thing i can think of is texas star has a meter on the amp that maybe why?anyway crafter do you own a 667v Texas Star?..if so how do you like it?and how many watts you getting out of it on am and sideband? |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 157
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 11:07 pm: |
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oh wow thats a big amp the 667v.im not sure my alternator could handle that or not?what is your set up like?bigger alternator? |
Bushpilot169
Member
Username: Bushpilot169
Post Number: 53
Registered: 2-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 12:05 am: |
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Freebird, Im running a texas star v mod . into
a texas star 1200 and Im haveing no problem with
my alternator,but it's 120 amp. |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 160
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 10:35 am: |
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Well I know my alternator is more amps than a car alternator is a full size truck.Guess ill have to find out about how many amps they amp will draw.My last amp was a klv 500 and that made my headlights go dim alot |
Chad
New member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 10:55 am: |
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It's important to look at your transmit duty cycle when deciding on upgrading your electrical system in your automobile. If you are in the "watergate" or some serious discussion and parked then yes it's a good idea to go bigger on the alternator and use a different pulley to spin it up, if your'e going down the highway and having simple chit chat your battery will hold the load and you should be fine.
Keep in mind in most circumstances your battery supplies the power and your alternator charges, it's a matter if your alternator can supply the energy to charge the battery with the car's electrical demand and your accessories.
If running a modest amount of power I would say look at what the big stereo guys are doing, granted a kick drum hit is much quicker than a 10 second key,you should be fine with an upgraded battery and a stock alternator.
If going with larger alternators it is good to know your local re-wind shop, often this is much less expensive than a "botique" chromed out alternator. Updating the wiring between the alternator and battery is cheap and good insurance also, I have seen these get warm with just a stock automobile. Once again, car audio to the rescue, MCM sells connectors for the right price and welding wire is the way I go. It is designed for abuse and I have found it to hold up well in automotive environments. Usually it comes in black only, OBSERVE POLARITY!
Good luck! |
Carolinagold
Junior Member
Username: Carolinagold
Post Number: 34
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 1:08 pm: |
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hey freebird i have a buddy that was into alot of car audio. but sold everything.
and i was haveing trouble out of my lights going dim and my alternator squealing. and bought one of those big capacitors off of him hooked it up and it holds enuff energey to power my amp (texas star 400v)when its cranked all the way up.
if you can find one of these caps on sale they work pretty good. but $250 for a new one is a bit much. just my two cents worth
carolinagold
cef# 416 |
Crafter
Senior Member
Username: Crafter
Post Number: 1023
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 3:04 pm: |
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I use a 80 amp altenator, and dual batteries with the extra battery box up from set-up like a diesel. No problems either and I think the extra battery isnt even needed.
Get around 600am and 750 sideband but I dont run it hard thats why I got a 667v so I dont have too. I dont have any problems on the bowl or railroad tracks either. |
Chad
New member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 10:29 pm: |
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A capacitor in a heavy key will loose it poop in less than a second. (lights just dim slower) Best bet is to go to a great battery with a big chunk 'o copper.
Most have found the Optima's to work well, allow for deep cycle, and have hecka CCA's for the big compression motors.
They were quite expensive, but, seems they are becoming popular (cheaper).
Also with dual batteries remember to not use solid state isolators, they will incur an approx .7V drop when charging. That's a healthy percentage at 13.8V.
I have found solenoids set for charging and off at Idle work best for large requirements. I set them to charge when voltage is sufficient, allowing the amp(s) at idle to have a higher voltage than the rest of the vehicle.
A simple zener/resistor/FET circuit does it. (With some support components)
Chad |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 161
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2004 - 10:32 pm: |
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Thanks for the info.I know texas star amps are more money but im guessing they are made better?Like the old saying goes you get what you pay for.Ill check to see how many amps my alternator is.Crafter im guessing your moblie is a truck?thats a good amp you got the texas star 667v what made you buy a texas star amp and not a klv or whatever?.My battery is the biggest one you can get for a full size pickup 1000 cranking amps.So im pretty sure it will do the trick i just gotta find out about the alternator..later |
Crafter
Senior Member
Username: Crafter
Post Number: 1025
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 3:01 am: |
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I have had many amps in my day and Texas Star is proven to be a quality amp to me. |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 163
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Friday, November 05, 2004 - 4:30 pm: |
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i found out my alternator is a 95 amp alternator i guess that will be ok? |
Crafter
Senior Member
Username: Crafter
Post Number: 1029
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 2:09 pm: |
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That would be great, sounds like a plan to me. I never asked what brand vehicle it was so what is it? I use a series 27 battery with large reserve rather than high cranking power most any battery has at least 550 cranking power. I am sure some imports need the higher power though. |
Butcher 318 (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 8:54 pm: |
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Freebird, if your alternator is a 95 amp model then you want to go with an amplifier that draws 50 amps or less with a good battery to boot. That guy running the Texas Star 1200 and a Mod V off a 120 amp alternator is already over what that system will draw and we have not even figured in what the car needs. I am surprised the vehicle does not stall when he keys up. The difference in the price of an amplifier is do to the quality of the unit for the most part. KLV and Palomar are bargain amplifiers, for the money spent you will have a good med to light duty amplifier. Texas Star is built alittle better and is a step up. If you like to hammer away you will want a custom built amplifier with a built in fan. Some examples would be X-Force, Magna Force, Davemade, Joker, Snowcap, AM Power, No-Name, Train built, Cookie built, and the list goes on. These amplifiers are built even better yet, and some are tuned as well for a good in-put / out-put match. You might try a Texas Star 500V, or a Magna Force 350, 400, or 600. For the most part it depends on what is important to you and what you want to spend. The yellow and red top Optima batterys are flat out the best you can get right now, take care. |
Freebird
Intermediate Member
Username: Freebird
Post Number: 167
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 9:10 pm: |
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chevy pickup truck full size hehe .how about you? |
Jon666
Intermediate Member
Username: Jon666
Post Number: 297
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 9:33 pm: |
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i run a xforce 80 into a golden eagle 1000
seems to work well
the only thing it seems to make my lights in my house flicker i think i should run a 220 line
direct to the meter box ye ha |
Crafter
Senior Member
Username: Crafter
Post Number: 1030
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 10:47 pm: |
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Fullsize suburban, Since its a chevy you can upgrade ur system by adding the extra battery box and battery they look clean. I dont use my amp much at night anyway, not much dx unless your on 40m. |
Patzerozero
Intermediate Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 183
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, November 06, 2004 - 11:04 pm: |
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the only thing to run a big box in is a 1987 or earlier chevy pickup/suburban/blazer (distant next is a chevy van). there is plenty of room for ANYTHING under the hood, and if it's older with no air conditioner-WOW! leece-neville's, multiple alternators in parallel or separate from vehicles system/for amp only set up all fit under these hoods! and there are so many aftermarket parts available for chevies!
my temporarily out of commission 84 blazer has had 10 or more alternators replaced in it-leece-neville, several aftermarket-for-on-board-welders, and the one that lasted the longest was custom made out of my stock alternator by my local auto electric shop. don't remember specifics, bigger/more diodes, small case but different pulley and back of housing required spacing alt 3/8" forward to get everything to line up, also needed to find proper mounting brackets because previous one cracked under stress of new setup. also only 1 wire setup, after truck starts, need to rev engine to energize charging. was tested at 105 amps at just above 2000rpm, and almost 80 amps at idle. again, underhood size comes into play here, battery was 1250 cca from a truck, along with 2or 3deep cycle 1000 or 1100 mca, could key dx 350 driving dx 1600 all day and keep volts at better than 13, and wattage at 12-13-1400 all day long. had less breakage with this set up than any high amp alternator set up. |
