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Radiodork
New member
Username: Radiodork

Post Number: 9
Registered: 6-2003
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Just purchased the above and would like to know what the output wattage should be powering with 13.8 volts on a 150 amp power supply? Unit needs a antenna changeover relay (looses ears sometimes when you unkey) and since I have no way to test the 2879's wondered if they were up to snuff. Do not intend to use it until I change out the relay. Thanks.
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2330
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

with 30-40 watts carrier drive(AM), & 150 PEP drive, you should see 300-350 carrier output & 1000 to 1200 PEP output.

don't push the output carrier past 350, if no fans, stay closer to 300. 1KW PEP from that amp is GOOD. anything more is either a loose meter, or a BONUS! mine reaches 1000 on a diamond sx100, but would show just over 1300 on an old maco meter, with 350 dead key & 4 custom fans(not the TS kit).

mine is 15 years old, original transistors & built like a timex .
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Radiodork
Junior Member
Username: Radiodork

Post Number: 10
Registered: 6-2003
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 1:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sorry, but I failed to say the test will be made with a 4 watt unmodulated carrier feed. Haven't tried it yet, but seem to remember from a while back when a friend had one that with 4 in it put out around 200 into a dummy load?
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Radiodork
Junior Member
Username: Radiodork

Post Number: 11
Registered: 6-2003
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 8:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the good info Patzerozero. I posted that 4 watt follow up before your reply was posted. I can test it either way. Look forward to good service also.
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2337
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 8:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

no problem, 4 watts in gets you around 200 PEP out, about 40 or 50 dead key. again exact #'s depend on the meter.
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Bc910
Advanced Member
Username: Bc910

Post Number: 680
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 8:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Pat?
What's the current draw on the 1600?
BC
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Im4jc
Member
Username: Im4jc

Post Number: 75
Registered: 11-2005


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 9:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

"4 watt unmodulated carrier feed"? Hmmm. Is someone going to be throwing a continuous deadkey to silence some long-winded gasbags, lol? I hate it when that happens.
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2339
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 9:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the 2x2290 driver will draw 20-30, & the 1600 another 100-130, so 120-160 total. just depends on how hard you're hitting everything.

i got that dependable 1kw PEP with a 105 amp alt & 3 batteries. took a few tries at rebuilding the alts before my guy came up on what would take the stress & heat, though
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Im4jc
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Username: Im4jc

Post Number: 77
Registered: 11-2005


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a 160 amp alt :-) Just go to a big truck dealer and you can take your pick.
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Hotwire
Advanced Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 861
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 1:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

When you upgrade you alternator do you have to upgrade other stuff like the coil?
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2376
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 2:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

usually just charge wire to battery & to starter/solenoid. big amp/real BIG alt/multiple batteries may require double pullies/v drive belts to keep 'em flying off.

ever see the videos on the web of 'em doing that?
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Hotwire
Advanced Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 868
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 8:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah I seen them. Hey I was looking at the Leece Neville website. They make some gear for ambulances that give 55 to 60 amps at idle. Ya know I had the chance a couple years ago to get an older model ambulance on the cheap. The guy had a pair.
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Hotwire
Advanced Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 884
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 8:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I just discovered the answer to all my power needs in the car! motor maul! very costly though....600 bucks for a 200 amp model from x force.
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Im4jc
Intermediate Member
Username: Im4jc

Post Number: 105
Registered: 11-2005


Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 2:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This may show my ignorance in flying colors, but what about one of those 50 farad car audio capacitors. Wouldn't they store up enough energy to run a DX-1600 for awhile while the alternator recharges it? I was thinking that maybe this would relieve the alternator a bit so that it wouldn't have such a massive draw all at once.
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2410
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 4:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

from what i've seen those BIG caps, which were really made to make 1 big THUMP from a car stereo sound good, don't hold enough to meet the higher peak watts of a XMTR. at least not anything much more then say 300-500 watts PEP.

a motor maul is a fairly ingenious design. i take it you've found that site, too, 'wire? there is always a possibilty of 'failure' with anything, & these are no exception. there are a couple different designs, mechanical with relays and/or solenoids as well as fully electrical with transistors/diodes/regulators. you WILL develop TONS of heat, so, they need TONS of space. and they are pretty big too. forget passengers or hauling capacity. $600 & you still need at least 2 good batteries, lots of HEAVY CABLE, & more jumper cables.

long and repeated key times will deplete battery storage quickly, especially the 2-battery maul. you will probably need to recharge the batteries after a good 2 hour net of DX.

should a failure occur, you now have 24 or 48 volts or more feeding your amp....though i have never actually seen that, i've heard of it.

these are more for those who just can't fit multiple alternators under the hood. but, that is what you are better off doing.
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Im4jc
Intermediate Member
Username: Im4jc

Post Number: 106
Registered: 11-2005


Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 4:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

So, why not go with a Leese Neville 160 amp big truck alternator. That's what I'm running right now, and they are only about $130 - $150 at Kenworth and Freightliner. I get full amperage at an 900 RMP idle. I'm sure that the mounting differences could be worked out for passenger car installations.
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Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero

Post Number: 2411
Registered: 7-2004


Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 5:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i'm assuming hotwire is driving a yugo or a mini & has no room under the hood for the L-N

here on LI they go for that in rebuildable condition. they can be built to deliver 230 amps or so at higher RPM's. usually adding them as a 2nd alternator to power the amp only requires the larger underhood space of a truck or older car. newer cars lack that much underhood space.

i haven't been able to find space for ANY kind of 2nd alternator under the hood of my durango without new bracketry, major reworking of what's already there & a different hood. my 84 blazer has room for more then a few
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Hotwire
Advanced Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 886
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah Pat space is an issue. Squezzing my hand into the engine compartment is sometimes painful so unless I found a Leece in my stock alternator housing forget it. Just gonna deal with what my 100 amp Chevy Corsica has to offer. Just found out today my buddies new Jeep has stock 170 amp alternator. lucky schmoe
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Dale
Intermediate Member
Username: Dale

Post Number: 314
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 8:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ive seen on other sites were people used thier trunks and had a couple of alt. and batteries but thier would be alot of power cables too run.
in a mini van custom make an alt./battery box
to fit in between the 2 front seats.mini vans are great for these gotta be creative though.ive seen these types of setups there pretty nice looking
dale/cef426
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Madigan
New member
Username: Madigan

Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 1:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Check out these Alternators
--------------------------------------------
http://www.dbelectrical.com/alternators/highampalt.shtml
--------------------------------------------
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/heavyduty.html
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Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 1092
Registered: 1-2005
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 9:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Madigan, Now thats the cheapest I ever found! 200 amp alt. for my Chevy Corsica, drop in replacement! 200 bucks! nice! All I have to do is upgrade my charge wire and be kilowatt ready!
Thanks and 73

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