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Rory
New member
Username: Rory

Post Number: 1
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 - 7:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi I have a TR696F-SSB radio,KLV-350 amp. and a I-MAX 2000 antenna and RG-8 mini coax about 75 feet.
I just found out that the swr meter in my radio has never worked. Barefoot my swr is 1:1,amp on low I get 2.5:1 amp on high I get 3:1. Could somebody tell me if this is normal or if I should change something. I'm wondering if my coax isn't good enough. Thanks in advance.
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2203
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Wednesday, October 25, 2006 - 8:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

using the SWR meter in the radio will only tell you what the SWR going INTO the amp is.
you need to have an SWR meter hooked up after the amp to know what the antenna's SWR is.
really, when running a linear, you should have both.

so, how are you measuring SWR now?
external meter?
before or after amp?
how do you know the radio's SWR meter is broken?

after these questions are answered,i can better help you.
be as detailed as possible,
matt
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Dx431
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Username: Dx431

Post Number: 1203
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 2:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I agree, also, I suggest changing out the coax. Mini 8 is fine for moble applications or a run less than 50'. You have a run of 75'. I suggest a low lose coax like RG213,RG8,or beldon 9913. You will notice a big differance.
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Hotwire
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Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 1936
Registered: 1-2005


Posted on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yeah definatley upgrade your coax to at least rg-213. 9913 or LMR400 is the best. RG8 is not the greatest stuff anymore and you should try to avoid it but would be better than rg8 mini. If your running an Imax and your swr is 1.1 barefoot then your good. I would'nt worry about the reading with the amp on unless it is major high or pegging. Amps will cause bad swr readings sometimes.
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Rory
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Username: Rory

Post Number: 2
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 8:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi. Thanks for your answers. All of your comments are appreciated. I found out that the meter on my radio wasn't working because when set on SWR the meter has never moved. Last night I tried my K-40 mobile antenna in the living room and I knew I would have SWR but still the meter on my radio never moved. I got my SWR readings with a separate meter between my amp and my antenna. Thanks again
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2209
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 9:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have no idea how much you know about this stuff, so please forgive me if this is stuff you already know.

on the radio, there will be a switch position labled "CAL" or CALIBRATE. switch the switch to this position. also switch the external SWR meter to CAL position.
with everything hooked up and external SWR meter hooked up between amp and antenna, amp off;
key the radio with mic gain all the way down.
turn the knob labled "CAL" or "SWR CAL" until the needle falls right into the indicated spot on the meter. do this on both the radio and the external SWR meter.
once you have them both calibrated, switch the radio and the external meter to SWR position.
key the mic again, and record the readings.
they both should be under two.
if not, then your SWR is too high to turn the amp on yet.
time to adjust antenna and check coax.

if they are both under 2 then flip the amp on, key the radio with the mic gain turned up to where you usually talk, and say "ahhhh" into the mic.
tune up amp for max watt reading while speaking into mic.
turn mic gain on radio all the way down.

now, with amp on and tuned, flip both radio and external SWR meters to CAL again.
key up the radio and again adjust boht meters until the needles fall into the spot on the meter marked CAL.
now switch both meters to SWR.
with mic gain still down, key the radio.
record both meters' SWR readings.
are they both still under two?
let us know what your readings are.
good luck,
matt
PS, when you switched the radio's internal meter to CAL postion and turned the knob all the way clockwise, did the needle move to the right?
how far?
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Rory
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Username: Rory

Post Number: 3
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Saturday, October 28, 2006 - 7:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks matt. i did just as you said.with amp off i get no movement on the radio's swr meter,the external meter went to 1.1, with the amp on this time i got no movement on the radio's meter and the external meter went whack all the way to the right. also i found that when the external meter is connected the rf power meter on my radio reads 2.5 watts usually its at 5 watts,i'm wondering if the external meter has a problem. also you asked about the cal meter on my radio, yes it moves it goes nicely all the way to the right. thanks,rory
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Bridge_man
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Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 19
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Saturday, October 28, 2006 - 9:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Rory I run a,klv350,and a anntron 99.my swr is 1.1 with amp off and 2.0 to 2.5 with it on.i've heard many say get it low with the amp on and many say as long as its low with just the radio then your allright.i cant answer your question but i will keep up with what happens cause im there with ya!
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2215
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 1:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ok, well, at least we're getting somewhere.

the fact that the radio's meter works in the CAL position leads me to believe that it works, but might be out of adjustment.

as for the amp; has it ever worked right?
did you just start checking the SWR on it?
where did the external meter come from?
was it new?
how about the jumpers, are they new?
have they been cut and new ends put on?
are some of them from unknown origins?

i think you can see where im going with all this.
we are trying to troubleshoot your whole system.
when troubleshooting an elusive problem; it is IMPERITIVE that you know what to trust and what not to trust. again, i think you can see what i mean.
so, what can you trust in your system?
jumpers are often overlooked as a source of problems, and they get more abuse than other equipment.
i would suggest buying a couple of new jumpers just to minimize the head scratching.
dont bother with the radio shack ones. cant trust 'em.
i would go with RG213, but RG8mini will work.
just get them from a quality company like copper so you can trust them.
at the very least; get a double female barrel connector. (this you can get from rad shak)
this will be used to test your current jumpers.

ok, first thing is to disconnect EVERYTHING.
i mean everything.
(radio on ch.20, AM mode, mic gain at min.)
connect the coax that goes to the antenna to the back of the radio.
turn the knob labled "S/RF-CAL-SWR" to "CAL".
turn the knob labled "SWR CAL" all the way counterclockwise. (to the left)
key the radio.
while mic is keyed, adjust "SWR CAL" knob so that the meter labled "SWR" (the one on the right) sits right on the "SET" spot.
unkey the mic.
turn knob labled "S/RF-CAL-SWR" to "SWR"
key mic.
what is the reading on the "SWR" meter?
if it did not move at all, thats OK for now.
if it did, write down the reading and try to be as exact as possible. DO NOT MOVE THE "SWR CAL" KNOB!
LEAVE IT RIGHT WHERE IT IS!

now, disconnect the antenna coax from the radio.
grab the jumper that used to go from the radio to the amp and connect it to the back of the radio.
connect the barrel connector to the other end of this jumper, and screw the antenna coax to the other side of the barrel connector.
now turn the knob labled "S/RF-CAL-SWR" to "CAL".
key the mic.
did the needle move to the exact same spot on the "SWR" meter? (it should have moved to where it says "SET" just like last time)
if it didnt, then i would call this jumper bad, and not use it anymore.

repeat this test with all your jumpers, and only use the ones that dont cause the needle to change position.

ok, using a known good jumper; connect the jumper to the back of the radio, the other end to your external SWR meter, and the output of your SWR meter to the antenna coax.
calibrate the external meter, check the SWR.
what is it?
if the meter on the radio moved during that SWR check, are the two meters in agreement?
is the antenna SWR below 1.5?
if so, good.

disconnect the antenna coax from the SWR meter, and using a known good jumper, connect the output of the SWR meter to the input of the amp.
connect the antenna coax to the output of the amp.
turn amp on, let it warm up, and tune it for ch. 20 the way i showed you in the last post.(you'll have to turn the mic gain back up for this, but turn it back down afterwards)
ok, amp on and tuned, SWR meter going INTO amp.
set SWR meter to CAL, key the mic and set to the CAL mark on the meter.
switch to SWR, key the mic, and write down the SWR reading.
less than 2? good.
using known good jumpers, hook the external SWR meter up after the amp.
do the SWR check proc. again.
what is the SWR?

OK, do the tests, answer my questions, write down the answers, and post back here what happened to you in great detail.
we aint licked yet!
matt
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Captian_radio
Member
Username: Captian_radio

Post Number: 79
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 8:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Has anyone ever thought that the problem could be related to the amp putting out excessive harmonics,IE twice the resonant frequency roughly 54 mhz which is the second harmonic of 27 mhz.When this happens the swr meter can and will often give false readings.I seem to remember a post somewhere pretaining to this fact.It was mentioned that placing either a high pass or low pass filter after the amp, I dont remember which one works.Lots of so called cb amps do not have the proper band pass filtering installed , I guess this may be a way to save money on during the manufacturing process.I have had this happen to me in the past with a couple of cb amps with poor filtering.
Bob CEF451
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Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire

Post Number: 1948
Registered: 1-2005


Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 1:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert, Many times that is the case. The antenna will not except energy at 54 mhz so it sends it back down to the radio. The meter cannot tell the difference between 27 and 54 mhz and the result is a bad reading. A low pass filter connected at the amps output is the only solution.
All those guys who will fight to convince everyone they have this big mega wattage do not realize this. Can't get everyone to visit Copper for the facts! That is why we are the best!
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Captian_radio
Member
Username: Captian_radio

Post Number: 80
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 1:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tnx Hotwire for backing me up.As I said in my post I couldnt remember if it was highpass or lowpass filter.It must have been one of your previous posts that I was trying to remember.Hotwire you are the man , keep up the good work, and hope to talk to you on the air sometime.
Bob CEF451
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Bridge_man
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Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 21
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 7:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

so to get a true swr reading i need to install a low-pass filter at the output of my amp?E01-05002 Low Pass Filter?found this at copper,is this what i need?how will it effect my recieve/transmit?what exactly does it do?kinda like a noise blanker?or will it keep me from coming over tv's?also is it put inline with pl plugs or hardwired?
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2219
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

well, you guys are getting a bit ahead of me, but this IS one possibility.

i wanted to eliminate the easy to miss, but cheap possibilities before he had to spend any money.

the amp shouldnt be putting out that much at 54mhz, as this is a tube amp and should be a bit better about this than a solid state amp.
if the amp is putting out excessive harmonics in teh 54 and 108 mhz range, then there is something wrong with the amp.
most likely something mistuned in the input/output sections.
so, will the low pass filter solve his problems?
maybe, but if the amp is mistuned and needs repair, then the low pass filter may just cut out the 54 and 108mhz harmonics and by doing so, cut all the power output off.
you see, the amp may be putting ALL of its signal onto the 54mhz freq.
this is not too hard to do if something inside the amp is wrong.

this is why i am going through such an exhaustive process to find out whats going on.
while i want to solve your problem bridge man, i also want to show you how to troubleshoot your system so you dont end up spending money needlessly.
bridge man, to answer the questions put forth in your last post.
question 1: maybe, we cant be sure it will work yet.
question 2: dont bother buying that filter. it will not work for you. it is too cheaply made to be of any use. you need to buy one from one of the many ham only dealers. it will cost between 60-100 dollars. bencher and nye viking are good brands.

question 3: if you buy a good quality filter, it will not affect your transmit or your receive.
if you place a wattmeter after the low pass filter, it may show lower readings than without the filter inline, but thats because the wattmeter doesnt know what freq. your wattage is on, and with the filter inline, it will ONLY show you the power that you are putting out on 27mhz.

question 4: a low pass filter allows lower frequencies to pass, but highly attenuates frequencies above a certain cutoff point.
for our applications, the cutoff point is 30mhz.
so, the harmonics your amp and or radio may be putting out on 54 and 108 mhz will be virtually eliminated. you get what you pay for with these things.

question 5:yes, it will help with TVI, but not if the TVI is due to overload. only if the TVI is due to harmonic radiation.

question 6" it uses PL-259's just like your SWR meter and amp. you'll have to get another jumper.

good luck with all this,
keep us posted,
BTW, did you try the tests i laid out?
what were the results?
matt
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2220
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, October 29, 2006 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)






sorry to bridge man and rory,
i kind of addressed you both in my next post without
differentiating between you.
i hope you both read the post and that it helps you both.
matt
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Bridge_man
Junior Member
Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 23
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 8:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks kid!i've found the low pass filters there about $60.but before i go spending that kind of money on something that may not make any diffrence im gonna try a diffrent swr meter.using a workman 1 k swr meter that acts kinda funny when trying to cal with amp on so it may just be a cheap meter.i will try checking in the order that you said before and get back to you.thanks again.
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2224
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

bridge man,

i think i know the phenomenon you are speaking of.

when calibrating the meter with the amp on, does the needle seem very "touchy"?
like a small movement of the knob equals a big movement of the needle?

if this is the case, its not a cheap meter, thats just how they act with a lot of power going to them.

i wanted to re-read your post since i got confused as to who was asking what last time.
you asked if you needed a low pass filter after the amp to get a true SWR reading.

well, the answer is no. the SWR reading you are getting on your meter after the amp is correct.
so, if you are seeing a 3 to 1 SWR with the amp on, then that is what the SWR is.
depending on the reason for the high SWR, the low pass filter may lower the SWR.
it will lower the SWR if it is due to harmonic radiation from the amp.
it will not lower the SWR if the antenna itself is mistuned.
so, if your SWR is fine with the amp off and inline, and high when the amp is on, then a low pass filter may be what you need.
one way to determine this is to use a dummy load after the amp.
see, the dummy load doesnt care what freq. the signal is on, it just cares that its 50 ohms.

so, for example:
the system goes like this: radio to amp to SWR meter to antenna.
with amp off, SWR is 1.5.
with amp on SWR is 3.
now you hook up the dummy load like this:
radio to amp to SWR meter to dummy load.
now with amp off SWR is 1.1.
amp on SWR is still 1.1 or just slightly higher, say 1.5.
this means that the amp is putting out harmonics that the antenna is not tuned for so they come back down the coax and are read as reflected power on your SWR meter thus causing a high SWR.
this would be a situation where i would try a low pass filter.

when we were talking about getting a true reading from the meter by using a low pass filter, we were talking about watts, not SWR.
you see, overdriving an amp with too much input power can cause splatter (harmonics). the wattmeter cant tell what freq. the power is on, so it reads out a relative reading of the whole spectrum. this results in a higher reading on the wattmeter, and really excites the operator who thinks they have a magic amp that will do more than it is rated for.
they dont like low pass filters because they think the filter lowers the power output of the amp.
thats not true. the filter makes sure that only the power on the freq. you are on reads on the meter.
hope this helps,
BTW, if you can describe the type of TVI you are having, we may be able to help with other suggestions.
details are always apprecitated.
good luck,
matt
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Bridge_man
Junior Member
Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 24
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Wednesday, November 01, 2006 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yes, the meter is very touchy with the amp on,almost impossible to calibrate with amp on.

If i lower my DK from 3 1/2 watts to lets say 2 then will it cut down on the splatter(harmonics) and give me a lower swr? im only swinging 15 watts into the amp and to cut the DK may lower the swing but if im lowering my swr will that make up the diffrence of lowering my total wattage output?in other words will i be better off with a little higher swr (still under 2.5) and a 200 watt output?or lower swr with a 150 watt output?
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2231
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Thursday, November 02, 2006 - 7:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yep, thats just how they act with power going to them. just turn the knob REAL slow. LOL

i understand what you are asking here about the deadkey, harmonics, and SWR.
these are some absolute realities of radio, and i hope they will help answer your questions.

1. lowering your deadkey wont make much of a difference in the splatter dept.
if the modulation limiter in the radio has been removed or the variable pot turned all the way up, then the radio will produce harmonics and splatter.
there is no way to remove these if the AMC circuit has been disabled.
a low pass filter may help reduce them, but a dirty radio is really hard to clean up after the signal leaves the radio.
best run a radio with an intact and properly adjusted AMC circuit, with the radio keying about 2 and swinging about 8.

2. the answer to the last two questions is that it really doesnt make a difference.
it is a very common habit in this hobby to obsess over things that no one else will ever, ever, ever, ever notice. LOL
here's how it works.
a radio transmitting 4 watts in to an antenna with a 3 to 1 SWR is still 75% efficient with three of the four watts getting out to the world.
when we are dealing with 400 to 4,000 watts, the match becomes a bit more important because 100 to 1,000 watts being reflected back to the radio or amp can be dangerous. an SWR of 2 to 1 at these power levels is just fine. getting it down to 1.5 will make you sleep better at night, but no one else will know the difference.

as far as power output goes, the difference between a 150 watt signal and a 200 watt signal is nothing, zip, zilch, nada.
what?! you say?
how can this be?
you're going to have to trust me on this, and i know it will come as a disappointment, but its the truth, and not just a theory. its physics.
for a signal to increase by 1 S-unit on someones receiver, you have to double your output power and then double it again. yep, thats right, a 4X power increase for a 1 S-unit gain.
this is true whether we are dealing with 1 watt or 1,000,000 watts.
if you were putting out 1,000 watts, and kicked on the BIG box so you were putting out 5,000 watts, the person on the other end would notice just over a 1 S-unit increase in your signal.

so, the little changes we all try and make to gain a few watts here or lower the SWR by .2 points really doesnt make any difference to anyone else but us.
that is how you need to think before justifying 1 red cent into improving your system.
high gain antennas are the best investment anyone can make to increase their range.
of coarse, buying a linear is easier and you dont have to put up a tower.LOL

im sure you can see by now that the difference between using an amp or not using one,is a big difference, but the power level really doesnt matter as much as people think.
from 4 watts to 160 watts= just over 2.5 S units increase.
from 4 watts to 256 watts= 3 S-units increase.
250 watts to 1,000 watts= 1 S unit increase.

so, after all that, my advice to you is to make sure the radio is operating cleanly, set the dead key at 2 watts, let the radio swing to about 8 watts, get the antenna's SWR down below 2 to 1, and ENJOY the station, and sleep well at night.

one more thing, grounding is very important and even more so when running an amp.
do some searches here on the forum and get yourself a single point ground system going.
good luck,
matt
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Bridge_man
Junior Member
Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 25
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Thursday, November 02, 2006 - 9:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

im gonna sleep good tonight!just gotta turn that dk down a bit.i got everything to a good ground.but not on the anntron,thats on my list for this weekend.
thanks matt, thats some really good info!

1 more question,how do you properly adjust the amc circuit?
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2233
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 9:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey bridge man,

the AMC circuit needs to be adjusted so that it produces as close to 100%modulation as possible without going over. (distortion)
the way to do this is with an oscilloscope.
unless you are sending your radio off to a professional shop to have it tuned, you probably wont have access to one of these.

what kind of radio do you have?
this will help me help you,
matt
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Bridge_man
Junior Member
Username: Bridge_man

Post Number: 31
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

realisitc navaho,trc-431
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Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious

Post Number: 2237
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

bridge man,

here are some adjustments and other cool mods for your radio.
i like those radios. they can be made very loud, but it will be so overmodulated that you will be coming through the toaster!LOL
best to keep it clean.
first, lets make sure the modulation limiters are in place. (just going to have to trust me for now that they shouldnt be removed, and you can be plenty loud with them in place.)
find VR7. this is your modulation control.
is it turned all the way one way?
if so, set it right at halfway.
if not, leave it be.

with the knobs of the radio facing you; look right in front of VR7. there should be a diode there.
is it clipped?
removed?
if so, replace it. should be a 1N914 or 1N4148, available at radio shack. make a not of which way it goes in, and replace it the same way.

now check for C511. its a 3.3uF electrolytic cap.
if its not there, or is clipped; replace it.

now that the AMC circuit is restored to stock, we can tune up the transmitter.
you must use the right tools and be VERY gentle and patient. if you crack the slug, you'll have to unsolder the whole tuning can, turn the slug out from the bottom, turn it upside down and replace it. can be very tricky.
the right tools are the plastic TV tuning tools available at radio shack.
set the radio to ch. 20.
with a wattmeter hooked up after the radio going to the antenna, key the mic.
while saying "ahhhh" into the mic in a normal voice, adjust L901 SLOWLY for max reading on wattmeter.
unkey mic.
repeat this process for each of these tuning cans, unkeying the mic between each one to let the radio cool.
L902, L903, L904.
if there is no glue in L905, and L907, you can adjust them too, but most likely there is glue on them and you DO NOT want to mess with that!
do not adjust any of the other similar looking cans.
now that the transmitter is set up, we can do our best to set the AMC control with a minimum of equipment.
if you do not have a modulation meter, then just leave VR7 where it is, and get a few trusted radio checks.
if they come back with low modulation, turn it up slightly until good audio is acheived.
resist the temptation to turn it further!
if you do have a modulation meter; calibrate it like this:
radio on ch. 20. mod. meter set to CAL.
key the mic, and while saying, "ahhh" into it, adjust the needle on the mod meter so that it sits in the CAL position of the meter.
unkey the mic.
switch mod meter to MOD. key the mic.
say, "ahhh"
what is the modulation percentage?
turn VR7 while saying "ahh" into the mic, so the MOD meter reads right at 100%. no more.
if audio checks come back too low, adjust VR7 slightly, but not too much.

here are a couple other things you can do, they dont so much have to do with modulation, but can help the radio operate better.
on the power supply board, replace the big electrolytic cap with a 4700uF 50volt one.
observe polarity.
obtain a .0047 ceramic disc cap.
cut the leads so they are about 3/4" long.
solder one leg to pin 6 of IR501.
solder the other leg to pin 4.
or, put an SPST switch in series with the cap to be able to switch it in and out of the circuit.
this will cut back on some of the noise, sort of like a noise blanker.

good luck,
feel free to email me if you need more specific help with this,
matt
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Captian_radio
Member
Username: Captian_radio

Post Number: 86
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2006 - 8:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Good morning Kid.I was looking at your figures for doubling power such as 4 watts to 256 watts , I must be getting old lol because I cant remember what 1 s unit is in dbs?Let me rephrase that 1 s unit is equal to 3 dbs so in effect going from 4 to 256 is inffect upping the power by a factor of 5, that would equate to 15 db power increase, now my question is what are most s meters in radios calibrated to , 6 db per s unit or 9 db per s unit, not sure been a long time since I studied this stuff.Looks like you will have him sorted out soon , because looking at your posts looks like you hit the nail on the head.Keep up the great work.Personally in a base setup I prefer to try to double my ERP with as good an antenna system as possible with high gain antenna systems and afterwards install an amp if need be.
Bob CEF451
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Bruce
Senior Member
Username: Bruce

Post Number: 4156
Registered: 9-2003
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2006 - 9:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

1 "S" unit is 6 db .....

The standard used by Hallicrafters/Collins was ..

"S" 9 is 100 UV's
"S" 8 is 50 UV
"S" 7 is 25 UV
"S" 6 is 12.5 UV
"S" 5 12 6.25 UV
"S" 4 is 3.12 UV
"S" 3 is 1.5 UV
"S" 2 is .75 UV
"S" 1 is .37 UV

But few sets even come close to being right ...
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Captian_radio
Member
Username: Captian_radio

Post Number: 87
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Monday, November 06, 2006 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Tnx Bruce. Now that brings back memories for me .Back in 1979 I had a set of Hallicrafter twins . The SX117 rcvr and the HT44 txmitter with the matching power supply.Man I had lots of fun with those on 11 meters (oops), one day I was brave enough to bootleg on 10 meters with my dads call sign for a verryyyyyy brief qso, gave the signal report etc and I was outta there(double oops)a few weeks my dad gets a qsl card from a guy in Scotland with his address on it and upon opening it he reads the card and says boy I dont remember making that contact then he looks closer and sees that it had my name on it , I guess I forgot to use my dads name (triple oops),so he called me and said boy if you want to do that kind of talking be a bit smarter, better yet just get your HAM CALL ^%$%$% .Needless to say I did get my ticket and its been all fun ever since.
Bob CEF451

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