| Author |
Message |
    
Chanalthrasher
| | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2001 - 1:16 pm: | 
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is there any way i could ad a led light to light up when i key up its a kl300/p |
Inspector
| | Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2002 - 12:32 am: |
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You can tap off the output transformer with a 5 or 10pF capacitor and 330- 475 ohm resistor, in series, feeding the LED...cathode of the LED to ground. I have a kl300p and did a couple of upgrades to it: I isolated the input transformer from ground (on the output side) and added an RF choke from it to ground. I also upgraded the feedback caps and resistors and the three small caps going from the output transformer to ground (to one metal film cap)...this all helps keep the amps output clean...stock produced some harmonics...overall a very good amp for the price. |
Inspector
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2002 - 12:54 am: |
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If you want to use the pre-amp independently of the TX amp, in the KL300p, you can open the circuit at the junction of R2 and Tr2 and install a switch. With the circuit open, Tr2 will not conduct thus keeping the TX amp relay from engaging. The pre-amp relay will still function as it should. |
Stanley
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 8:33 pm: |
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Back after 15 years... Much has changed. Transistorized amps were pretty new stuff then, now it's the norm. But I hear a lot of crappy transistorized amps out there. I wanna get one, what's good these days? Say 150W AM/250~300W SSB? ClassAB... I hear good things about the Texas Star stuff, what about this KL brand? I use to have a Pride, are they still around? What about Palomar? Thanks. |
Tech671
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 9:11 pm: |
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My favorite SSB amp available today is the 12 series from XForce. The 80-12 may be in your ballpark. You'll get 250-300w SSB, class B biasing, variable power, switchable SSB, and forced air fan cooled. If that's not quite enough the 200-12 is a similar configuration except you will get 400+ SSB and low/high power settings.
If you need further specs feel free to mail me. |
Alsworld
| | Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 1:19 pm: |
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Stanley,
Tech671 knows amps much moreso than I, but I have the KL 351 Mod P, which is now called the KL 400 Mod P. I believe it's a class AB amp (correct me if I wrong anyone). It sounds very clean both am and ssb. No SWR rise, easy to operate, overall real nice. 6 power setting are nice. It is a mobile so I cannot say much on the KL base amps except what I read on the web.
I know there are many others out there, this is just the one I bought from copper's and would definetly purchase another if needed. It's in the wattage range you mentioned. My friends meter showed it putting out about 190-210 on the higher settings (AM) but each meter might read different. I'm very happy with it, all for $99 here. I keep it on setting #3 pretty much all the time and it does fine. |
Tech671
| | Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 8:41 pm: |
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Agreed the kl 351 (400) is a nice unit for the $ |
Stanley
| | Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 11:49 pm: |
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Thanks for that. I'll look into it. |
Phybre666
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 10:05 am: |
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Inspector-
Care to post your conversion info again? I looked and looked on Panther's forum, but couldn't find the info you mentioned.
Thx!
-phybre666 |
Oldsalt
| | Posted on Thursday, July 04, 2002 - 1:01 am: |
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Are the KL 400's factory ready for CB or do they require a mod like the Texas Stars? |
Inspector
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 2:56 am: |
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To change the KL-300p from the stock Class C to a Class AB for better SSB use. Isolate the bases of the RF transistors by "un-grounding" the smaller input transformer T2 in the schematics (T1 on the layout drawing!). Between this opening, add an RF choke tied to the anode-end of a large diode, the cathode end to the ground. At the choke-diode junction, add a 100 ohm/10W or similar resistor. The other end of the resistor to 13.8V+...This will apply about 1Vdc or so to the base of the transistors, keeping them on and making it LINEAR in operation. Space inside IS a problem so plan ahead. |
The_Grand_Pooh
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 12:44 am: |
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Is the KL400 a class AB amp? Has anyone tested this amp to see what the true output numbers are?
The Grand Pooh-Bah |
Alsworld
| | Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2002 - 10:18 am: |
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The Grand Pooh,
From what I have read (which of course I cannot find now), the KL Mod351 and it's replacement the KL400 are both class AB, whereas the KL300 is not.
The KL400 replaced the KL Mod351. They both run MRF455 pills inside, however I have read where the 400 has an improved driver. My 351 was rated at 125 watts on AM, where the 400 is rated at 150 watts AM. Above I stated where I had mine do higher ratings than the standard listing but on a friends meter and power supply. Now with my own set of each, I can achieve around those same results if I drive it hard (4 watts input, 13.8V), which I don't do normally. I can peak at 140 watts AM with a 2W input, 13.8 volts but usually run it at 1W input. I would assume the results would be slightly higher with the 400. SSB wattage will obviously be higher.
Tech181 did a great review on the KL300 under the subscribers preview section. I reference this article as he breaks down the different wattage outputs depending on watts in and voltage applied. It is very informative for those that don't know a lot about amps. I am not trying to say that about you or insult your intelligence in any way, it just taught me a lot that I can now apply and understand how each factor comes into play.
Bottom line, with a good power supply or in a mobile, I feel confident that you will see those 150/300 watts or even more easily.
Alsworld |
Tech671
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 5:58 am: |
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You know what would be kinda neat.... to see a KL mobile using (4) of the RM-3 transistors likt the ones used in the KL203. Hmmm..... |
Dmh
| | Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2003 - 10:12 am: |
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I read somewhere that the small kL40 & kL60 amps need to have one of the so239's connected BEFORE using. Is this correct? I have already set my dead key to 1 to 1.5 watts, just wanted to make sure BEFORE burning up some transistors. |
Tech808
| | Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2003 - 2:27 pm: |
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Dmh,
If you buy the KLV 40 or the KLV 60 from Copper they will arrive ready to use.
You will have to do nothing except hook it up to 12 V power and add a Jumper for radio.
http://www.copperelectronics.com/cgi-bin/checkitout/checkitout.cgi?catalogSTORE:CKIE:prodW90-KL40+
http://www.copperelectronics.com/cgi-bin/checkitout/checkitout.cgi?catalogSTORE:CKIE:prodW90-KL60+
Hope this Help's.
Lon
Tech808 |
Crafter
| | Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2003 - 6:59 pm: |
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What do those things use for a final anyone know? |
Znut
| | Posted on Friday, December 19, 2003 - 6:08 pm: |
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Dmh, set your deadkey to 1/2 watt, if you can. It works better.
Crafter, they use some fairly tough little 25 watt mosfets.
I have a kl 40. It works pretty good helping out a weak radio but it does not use a relay for RX/TX switching and the RX/TX transistor(or whatever) in mine doesn't like to switch back to RX real quick. |
Johnhenre
| | Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 12:28 am: |
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KL-300/P HOW IF POSSIBLE ,TO DROP OUT THE PREAMP ON THIS MODEL USEING A SWITH? AND STILL BE ABLE TO TRANSMIT AND USE THE PREAMP WHEN THERE IS A NEED FOR IT? |
Bulldog369
Intermediate Member
Username: Bulldog369
Post Number: 114
Registered: 2-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, May 02, 2004 - 9:56 am: |
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If you want to use the pre-amp independently of the TX amp, in the KL300p, you can open the circuit at the junction of R2 and Tr2 and install a switch. With the circuit open, Tr2 will not conduct thus keeping the TX amp relay from engaging. The pre-amp relay will still function as it should.
THIS MOD DOES NOT WORK AT ALL..... I BLEW THE TRANSISTOR WHEN DOING THIS MOD.. SO LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES.. |
Ak3383
New member
Username: Ak3383
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 10:06 pm: |
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The amps use a RM3 transistor I think they are Mosfet type |
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