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Neo
New member
Username: Neo

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 6:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Need a Schematic to a phantom amp. This one is an older rev unit. Has 4 toobs driving 8 toobs. Another little toob is used to pick the T/R relay. Does not have a bandswitch.

I think the newer units have a transistor to run the t/r relay and also a bandswitch.
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Pogo12
Junior Member
Username: Pogo12

Post Number: 11
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 6:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Do you still need the schematic?
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Bullfrog13x4
Junior Member
Username: Bullfrog13x4

Post Number: 43
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

you need a phantom dual stage w key-up tube schematic.

does yours have the bilateral/rec. amp?
does yours have a brown face or a gray face?

i have copys of both of these types if you still need a copy and know for shure wich one you have i can send you a copy.

what is wrong with it? i might be able to piont you in the right direction. did you know you can install larger heavier duty tubes in that box for more duration and performance?

4 6lx6/6mh6 tubes driving 8 6kd6 tubes for a true kilowatt..high drive.

the most common problem with these antique machines is the electrolitic caps, the caps will go bad even just sitting on the shelf, every tube amp i have seen has had this problem it is extreamly easy to fix. in the phantom you will see 2 packs of three caps and in some versions(triple stage) a third pack with 2 caps (for med power). these caps are called filter caps, because that is what they do they filter off the alternating current hum that comes down the line from the pole. the amp will opperate without these caps butt you will get an awsome amount of buzzing from it. normaly these caps will short out, sometimes exploding into a puff ball or simply spewing liquid all over everything when these caps short out they tend to take the rectifier with them. because of this every amp i work on i replace the caps and rectifier at the same time weither they are bad or not, when i do this i also upgrade them to a slightly larger value, if the cap was a 100uf/350v than i replace with a 100uf/450v this will alow the cap to hold a higher voltage for a longer period of time, for the rectifier they are normally made up of diods commonly of the 1amp @ 450v family i replace them with 6 amp @ 1000v doides after both of these upgrades you can rest ashured the power supply in your amp is "good to go" as long as the transformers are good. and make shure you are still using the proper fuse if you replace it with a larger value and sompthing went wrong the rectifier will no longer short out and will continue feeding power melting components..
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N5xes
New member
Username: N5xes

Post Number: 1
Registered: 3-2007
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 5:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

got an old 12 tuber schematic on hand. still using the old girl on 10 meters on the original tubes . YES they can last 30+ years if you run 'em the way they were designed. I'll send you the file if you still need it. i scan everything as .pdf so have adobe reader on hand!!!

email: n5xes@arrl.net

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