| Author |
Message |
    
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 29
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 12:17 pm: | 
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I just picked up a new-in-box, I mean brand spankin new Uniden Grant LT/Phillipines. My local CB shop had it in a glass display case with all of the other new Uniden radios that he carrys. He's had it on the shelf for over a year...in front of God and everybody, and nobody bought it. He said that his distributor has a few of them left, and he doesn't have any problem getting another one. I said that he better call his distributor, because these radios are getting really hard to find, and I doubt there are any left. He did, and was shocked to find out that they were all gone.
But on to my question. I set it to a 6 watt DK with a 19-20 watt swing, and it sounds truly awesome. I was actually able to get it to 7 watt dk, but I backed it off to 6 to be safe.
Anyway, I'm a bit confused because I'm getting conflicting info from the forum. For instance:
Kid_Vicious says "if, however you set the deadkey too high, (above about 5 watts), you will really be stressing that final transistor"
Yankee says "anything over about 3 watts AM dead key with a 1969 final will shorten the life of the driver and final"
Patzerozero says "the big boys shoot for 12-13 RMS swing(18-19 pep) & then their custom made amps are HAPPY"
Am I safe with where it's set? 6 watt carrier, 19-20 watt PEP? AMC pot fully clockwise with limiter intact. Mike gain fully clockwise with an RK56C.
Actually, I still get 19-20 PEP with the mike gain at about 2 o'clock, but I got some radio checks from some local base stations, and they say that it sounds crystal clear and there is no detectible distortion/overmodulation with the mike gain full on. Everyone says "What a screamer!" and "Man, that's a loud radio" I was hitting a base 9 miles away at 9 S-units (he didn't have a pre-amp), and that's with a measly old Wilson 2000 on an 18" shaft.
Thx. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 8892
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 12:37 pm: |
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Im4jc,
Well I do it the easy way.
On our Grant Serial Number #95002444 made in the Philippines I backed the the dead key DOWN to 2-1/2 watts and we use a KL40 or KL60 when needed.
That way we are not stressing any components and it works GREAT! 
I like doing things the EASY way. 
Orrrrrrrrrrr just leave it 100% STOCK and not adjust anything and it will work GREAT!
You will find that different people have different opinions of what works best for them with their radios and their setup.
You need to find what works BEST for YOU and your setup as you are the only one who needs to be happy with it.
That is what is GREAT about the Copper Forum you get many ideas and recommendations/suggestions and this gives you a choice to choose from.
What works for one person and their setup and makes them happy may not work for you and your setup or make you happy.
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 30
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 12:47 pm: |
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Hmmm. I love the sales plugs you guys squeeze in, lol. Just kidding Lon. That's a great idea, but I'm saving up (Ok, I admit it. I have the money, but what I'm really doing is working up the courage to notify/beg my wife) to buy a Texas Star 350 HDV...yes...from YOU  to run behind the Grant, but for now, am I safe with it set the way it is? BTW, my serial # is 16001687. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 8893
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 12:55 pm: |
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Im4jc,
Dont buy it from Me or I GUARENTEE you, that you will pay more from me than from Copper.
I have to pay 6-1/4 percent State tax on everything that comes IN and you will pay the 7.50 Sales City & State Sales Tax on everything that goes out. 
Opps and DO NOT FORGET my profit that I also add on to EVERYTHING!
My Tax Lady aka: the 1st Sargant really likes for us to show a profit at the end of the year.
And on our prices we have to figure in Shipping to us, sales taxs, insurance, overhead costs, and profit.
Sorry, but I cannot compete with the LOW PRICES that Copper has. 
Now you know why we are simi retired after 30 years of headaches.
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 32
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 1:24 pm: |
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Lol, by "you" I meant "Copper".
Anyhoo, did I mention that I LOVE MY GRANT!? Well if I didn't...I LOVE MY GRANT!
Ahem, ok, I just had to get that out of my system. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2192
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 5:43 pm: |
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lowering the dead key as 808 recommends is a good thing-i key my amp with my XL at 3 watts, or a hair less.
you could do as i did-remove the VR AM POWER & wire it to the squelch pot on the front of the radio for a variable output. that way i can HIT different amps with from less then 1 watt key to over 5 watts key  |
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 34
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 6:50 pm: |
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Pat: Yeah, once I get an amp (could be awhile), a dial-a-watt would be cool. But if you use your external squelch pot, then how do you control your squelch if it's hooked up to VR AM POWER?
Hollowpoint: I think I'll follow your advice and drop it to 4 watts while I'm running barefoot. Wouldn't want to stress the components, and I really do want to get 100% modulation. Thanks!
I'm a dope when it comes to radios, but I'm learning |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2198
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 7:19 pm: |
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i don't use the squelch, but you could put it on the rf gain, or the swr cal, or add a pot to the side of the radio, or remove the bright/dim switch & put a pot there, etc |
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 40
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 8:37 pm: |
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I've been thinking that instead of defacing a pristine Grant LT that I could make up an external mount that velcro's to the top or bottom of the covers. Maybe an L-shaped piece of steel with holes drilled in one face for a couple of rotary external potentiometers. Then a nice braided wire loom or something with quick-disconnects near the rear of the chassis.
Now that I think about it, it could have a hole cut into it to fit the ranger freq counter that I have for it too. Rotary switches to the left and freq counter to the right, all in the same piece of metal.
Hey, what a cool idea  |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 2207
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 8:59 pm: |
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you DON'T have to cut anything for freq counter wires to come through case-there is a notch conveniently placed in back of radio where mine come out, so the variable could come out the same way on the other side.
go to hardware store & get a small piece of angle aluminum & piece of velcro....not a bad idea ya got there Im4jc! |
Im4jc
Junior Member
Username: Im4jc
Post Number: 41
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 9:18 pm: |
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Roger that! |
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