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Beeker7104
New member
Username: Beeker7104

Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 6:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have an old Teaberry Model "T" base that has tubes in it. I have replaced the 2-6BQ5's for the trans and rec. but now I have a different problem....Now when the radio warms up it shuts down will not RX or TX. What could the problem be?
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Moderator1516
Moderator
Username: Moderator1516

Post Number: 54
Registered: 8-2005


Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2005 - 6:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have a gem tronics yhat does the same thing,dont have any way to check tubes
moderator1516
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Tech833
Intermediate Member
Username: Tech833

Post Number: 102
Registered: 12-2001
Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2005 - 11:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Replace the electrolytic capacitors.
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Beeker7104
New member
Username: Beeker7104

Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2005 - 2:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

ok, I'll try that....Thanks
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Bullfrog13x4
New member
Username: Bullfrog13x4

Post Number: 8
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 3:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i would suggest replacing all of the electrolytic caps in that old radio because they will go bad simply from time. even if they are brand new never used just sitting on the shelf through time they just go bad..

i have two of these awsome tuber redios one os the 40 ch version and the other is the 23 ch version and when i first got them they worked perfect and one day the 40 ch one let out ths horiffying screem sounded like an old freight train siren whistling and all. i pulled the covers to find this liquid and felt looking substance all over everything. it was an exploded cap (kaboom), any way i replaced all of the caps in both radios my self and it only cost me $20.00 for them all (note i upgraded all of them from factory ie: if it was a 25volt part i put in a 35volt part more endurance and performance) and now the radio's work perfect.

hope this helps, happy 73's
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Tech833
Moderator
Username: Tech833

Post Number: 1319
Registered: 8-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 18, 2006 - 9:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have a completely restored Model T (40 channel version) and it has had every cap replaced. Now, it comes right up every time. No worries.
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Bullfrog13x4
Junior Member
Username: Bullfrog13x4

Post Number: 28
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Friday, April 21, 2006 - 2:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hey 1561 i have 3 tube testers and i would be willing to test them for you.
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Pogo12
Junior Member
Username: Pogo12

Post Number: 42
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 1:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I had this same problem on a model T.It turns out that one of the wires going to the modulator tube at the right front(6BQ5 TUBE) had burned off insulation and so the wire would short to the chassis as it started to pull current. This was a new out of the box radio that I bought my self.Go around the bottom of the chassis and pull up on the wires with a plastic tuning tool.You may find one melted to the chassis.
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Bullfrog13x4
Junior Member
Username: Bullfrog13x4

Post Number: 45
Registered: 3-2006
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2006 - 1:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

MAKE SHURE YOU UNPLUG AND DISCHARGE THE FILTER CAPS BEFORE POKING AROUND INSIDE....

WARNING!!!! THESE RADIOS HAVE 400V +++ AC/DC
THIS IS MORE THAN ENOUGH TO KILL.......

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