| Author |
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Bigbob
| | Posted on Monday, January 05, 2004 - 6:44 pm: | 
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The pigtail is 8 inches long and has a 40 amp fuse in it,BUT,it is 14 gauge wire?!?!,the ground pigtail is 10 gauge,what gives,just cheap construction,or did they buy a carload and use the same thing for every size amp.I've seen this practice in high-power accessory head lamps,got 8 gauge harness with a 14 gauge fused pigtail and a 10 gauge ground,puzzling. |
Crafter
| | Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 1:00 pm: |
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I dont own one but if it was me I would change it to 10 gauge wire. I think your aready leaning that way anyway right. Like you said probally got a bunch of them cheap. |
Tech671
| | Posted on Sunday, January 11, 2004 - 8:01 am: |
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They've been doing that for years Bob. It's less expensive for the 12-14ga wired fuseholder. |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Saturday, January 17, 2004 - 7:04 pm: |
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Ya'know the 40 amp fuse element is thicker than the copper wire,just bought me a heavy duty blade fuse holder will take up to 80 amp fuse,I got a 40 amp,this holder has 8 gauge wire,gonna be a bear to connect to circuit board,any suggestions?Bigbob |
Tech8541
| | Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2004 - 12:54 am: |
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do my suggestions count in your offer to take suggestions??? |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2004 - 8:02 am: |
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Yes |
Tech8541
| | Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2004 - 6:24 pm: |
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ok, i just wanted to check since my last suggestions to you seemed to make you a little hot.
you will need a large soldering iron or even better a soldering gun. you can find one at your local ratshack for $13; http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=64-2193
let the gun completely heat up. place the gun on wires at the pcb. let solder begin to flow and then wiggle wire until it begins to come loose. i like to get behind the wire with the gun and push with the gun while i pull the wire forward. you are kind of getting under the wire and prying it up while you are pulling the wire off with your hand.
now to add the new wires. if you don't have a vise, you'll need some way to hold the new wires. vise grips will work fine also. clamp the wires in whatever you have to hold them with the stripped ends up. let the gun completely heat up again and pre-tin the wires. lay on a generous layer of solder as it will help when you go to solder these wires to the pcb.
after you pre-tin the wires, you are ready to solder them to the pcb. use the gun to heat both the wire and the pcb at the same time. when the solder begins to flow, push the wire down firmly onto the pcb. you may need to add more solder to make a good connection.
add heat for removing and adding the wires in the shortest amount of time possible. this will keep the pcb foil from coming off the board. the secret is using a high level of heat for a short time.
as for passing the larger wires through the cabinet of the amp, i'm sure you can do this without any problem. some ratshacks have the bigger gromets that you may need. many do not as they are getting away from components.
let me run, i want to watch some discovery ch. they are going to show how the panthers here in the carolinas stalk their prey. they are letting the panthers loose in an eagle preservation in philadelphia. |
Bigbob
| | Posted on Sunday, January 18, 2004 - 9:42 pm: |
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I used a short ten gauge jumper and modified the stock strain relief,need that,10 gauge is 3 times the dia. of 14 gauge.The change produced 100 more watts rf power,now avg. is 535 from boomer 400 on ssb,AND the voltage fluctuations are much less and voltage drop is only .2 volts(from 14 volts),curious,why am I getting a 235 watt d.k. with 2.5 in,it should be only 125,but that's what it was with 14 gauge pigtail.My advice,everyone check their fuse pigtail for proper gauge.Bigbob |
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