| Author |
Message |
    
Chad
Intermediate Member
Username: Chad
Post Number: 164
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Friday, February 25, 2005 - 9:24 am: | 
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I see most recommend grounding the radio at the battery, This goes against everything I have ever heard about automotive electronics.
Wondering what the rationale is, everyone says copper strap or big wire for grounding, What's more like copper strap than sheetmetal and frame tube? The resistance of that chunk of sheet metal is also less than that of the return ground wire.
Just wondering, I'm on body studs for everything and have no problems, what does everyone else do? |
Patzerozero
Intermediate Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 485
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Friday, February 25, 2005 - 3:30 pm: |
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mobiles are harder to get grounded properly then bases & nobody grounds them right anyway!
if you have no rfi to stereo, idiot lights, winshield wipers, computer, low swr's, no mic bite, then you're probably good.
my amps & radio power go straight to battery. they are also grounded to seat mounting bolts. amps & radios cases also grounded. battery to engine block. to alternator. to body.to frame. exhaust to frame. doors, hood & liftgate checked to frame with ohmeter....etc, etc, etc. how carried away you get depends on what you're running. & how many miles of ground cable you have laying around. |
Iluvrf
New member
Username: Iluvrf
Post Number: 1
Registered: 2-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 25, 2005 - 4:55 pm: |
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That battery is a big capacitor that alot of times filters out some noise. BUT I have seen times when it makes the noise unbearable and you have to go to the frame or body |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 5013
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 12:03 am: |
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Chad,
I have found on several vehicles over the years that I had to go to the Starter Solenoid for power and the starter bolt to the engine for a good problem free setup.
Solved the problem. 
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9OSN |
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