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Kid_vicious
Intermediate Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 454
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, August 06, 2005 - 9:01 pm: | 
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i have been busy replacing caps and other components in my 2000 for the past few months. (i have a lot of other responsibilities.)
i am now ready to re-bias the driver and final.
BUT!!! here's the problem. about a week ago, i decided to set the output of my external power supply to 14 volts. (i just like it there.)
well, dummy me, i had the volt meter set on mA, and put the leads across the neg. and pos.
and there was the quick zap followed by a lengthy discharge of colorful metaphors.
now the meter wont read anything in the Amps section, just zeros. can anyone out there just reassure me that doing this just once will blow a cheapie volt meter? my radio seems to be working fine but i need to rebias. Are there any other reasons why my meter would show no bias current while hooked up in series with the bias wire to the test point?
Also there is a discrepency in the service info that i have on this radio. the sams reprint i have states to adjust L19 for 2.70 volts on channel 40 and check for 1.95 volts on Ch.1.
i know this is incorrect, as when i did this, ch. 1 would not read properly. i put it back to 3.30 volts on ch.40 and it works, but i would like to know the proper voltage. this book also states to adjust the driver bias by inserting the meter at TP3!
thanks in advance for making it through my long post. any help would be much appreciated.
i'll list the mods i've done in the mext post.
thanks.
matt |
Kid_vicious
Intermediate Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 463
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 07, 2005 - 9:43 pm: |
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well, i guess i'll just have to buy another meter.
still would like to know what the proper voltage setting for L19 is.
since i said in other posts that i would; im listing the mods that i have done to my radio.
i have tried others, but these are the keepers.
i did the npc mod and volted the final, but i did not remove TR24. instead i added 1.5K to the middle leg.
remove C207
replace R206 with a 39K resistor.
remove C232
change R114 to 10K resistor.
change C18 to 680uF 16 volt or higher
change C172 to 2200uF 35 volt or higher
replace R180 with a jumper
replace TR41 with NTE152
replace C163 with 3pF
remove R131 and put on a switch. (this is mostly for DX use, as it will cause some distortion at close distances. i have only flipped the switch once to make a rare contact on AM with San Francisco.)
for the receiver, replace TR14 with a 2sc2999 or NTE 107.
replace TR19 with the old TR14. (2sc1674)
replace D1, D2, D21, D22 with NTE583 diodes.
replace all 10 volt rated electrolytic caps with 16 volt types. (i replaced ALL the electrolytic caps in mine as it is an old radio.)
i cannot take credit for finding these mods on my own. a very smart man on this site by the name of patzerozero posted them for me, and i did pretty much the same mods he had done.
this radio works great like this and i key at 1.5 watts and swing to about 12. (15 on my cheap meter.) |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 1175
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2005 - 12:30 am: |
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thank you, kid vicious. but i'm not really that smart.(well maybe ). i collected them over the years prior to internet, & since, even some came from before the time of the late great 'uniden grant xl owners club'. unfortunately you've never heard my grant xl, but maybe someday, & i'll hear your 2000, & we'll KNOW just HOW GOOD they sound . for now, i'll just have to take tech 808's & the others' word for it.
humble i am not |
Viking
Intermediate Member
Username: Viking
Post Number: 220
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2005 - 11:01 am: |
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On the meters that I've zapped the amp setting, it was fixed by replacing a fuse inside. My first analog RShack meter I did this to; they didn't stock the fuse and wanted me to pay shipping. The fuse would have costed just under the price of a new meter. Anyway, took the fuse, wrapped it in aluminum foil, reinstalled it and it's worked great since. Crude, but effetive. |
Kid_vicious
Intermediate Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 466
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2005 - 9:18 pm: |
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thanks viking. i'll try that. i went to rad shak today and bought an analog meter, (i just like analog meters for some things.)
well, when i got home, exited to be able to bias my driver and final; i found out that there is no scale on the meter for mA. its just not there! the instructions are no help. they dont mention it at all. the mA section reads to 250mA
and the only scale that looks close is the DC voltage scale that goes to 125. maybe i just have to double the reading. anyway, im still frustrated, and you have given me a ray of hope, as rad shak will be closed when i get off work, but i wont be able to fall asleep until i try.
pat, do you have R131 removed in your grant XL?
im still not sure if i like it or not. good thing its on a switch. |
Patzerozero
Senior Member
Username: Patzerozero
Post Number: 1191
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2005 - 7:11 pm: |
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yes, kv, the limiter, r131 is ALWAYS on a switch. with it out of the circuit, i use it for DX & LONG local. you can't tell it's not there. close, it sounds a bit crunchy.
look at my DX signal reports from nets & other CEF contacts, nobody's ever said it sounds bad(clipped limiter disbelievers, i respect your decision to keep it in, but PLEASE do NOT now say it sounds bad since you know...)
no, i do not like the sound either, up close, & up close YOU CAN TELL! |
Kid_vicious
Intermediate Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 478
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 12:41 am: |
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thanks for the reply pat. my findings are exactly the same. as are my beleifs about limiter removals.
viking, i fixed the meter. thanks for the info!
to all, i am finally in the finishing stages of leaving my 2000 the heck alone.LOL
and i needed to know how the radio sounds on the air. i have tried this before with the GF on the base and me in the mobile, but she couldnt understand my instructions and got fed up quick!
so here is the solution ive devised:
put mobile in a bedroom, doors closed, no antenna on mobile.
put tape recorder (not digital) next to mobile speaker. (i used my 4-track)
hit record. (dont forget tape!)
go to base, hooked to antenna, put all modulation controls at 12 O'clock.
speak into mic and say aloud the changes you are making.
"mic at 12, dynamike at 12, two feet from mic."
etc.
upon listening to the tape, i was able to tell that the sweet spot for my set up is both controls at 11o'clock about two feet from mic.
both controls at 9o'clock about 6" from mic.
BTW, my radio sounds BADDDDDD^SSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!
that is all |
Viking
Intermediate Member
Username: Viking
Post Number: 221
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2005 - 4:07 pm: |
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Right on Matt! I like the way you set it up for a 'one-man' audio check. And they say you need an o-scope to dial things in.  lol |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 501
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2005 - 9:06 pm: |
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dont get me wrong viking. i dream of owning REAL test equipment. but for now, what im doin be workin'. |
Yankee
Advanced Member
Username: Yankee
Post Number: 847
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 26, 2005 - 6:00 am: |
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Matt, I heard your 2000 GTL on Sunday's LSB net. I've heard my Grant XL, before I owned it. All I could think of saying was. My lord that radio is loud on sideband, just like my Grant XL.
Matt, what microphone were you using Sunday last? On the nets I run the Silver Eagle and I have just read the mods. you have done and my Grant XL has been done very close to the same as your 2000 GTL.
Carl CEF-357 |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 540
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2005 - 10:59 pm: |
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carl, i was using the turner +3B. thanks for the flowers!
i want to use my siver eagle sometimes, but the mic element is bad. it's very tough to find a replacement. im trying to hold out for a new one or a good new replacement.
hope to hear you again on sunday. (it's a good thing you have a beam, us west coasters get lonely way out here!!! HA!
take it easy and i hope you're feeling OK these days.
matt |
Kid_vicious
Advanced Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 541
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2005 - 11:02 pm: |
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BTW, my 2000gtl now has the PLL channel mod done to it. 26.815-28.045. the VCO covered the whole range with only a slight adjustment. TX mixers cover the range with a tiny power drop.
(2 watts on 27.185 is 1 watt on 27.995.)
mod uses the six position rotary switch and is mounted in phone jack location. works great!!!
matt |
Hollowpoint445
Advanced Member
Username: Hollowpoint445
Post Number: 715
Registered: 6-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2005 - 1:42 pm: |
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While you're waiting to find the proper replacement, why not use a replacement element from the handheld D104? It's got about the same frequency response and the impedance is about the same.
If you don't care to pay the premium for an Astatic you can find a generic crystal or ceramic element and give that a try. |
Sg569
Intermediate Member
Username: Sg569
Post Number: 229
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2005 - 3:22 pm: |
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Kv,
Was the channel mod just jumping pins w/ switches?? The only reason I ask is the 2000gtl that I picked up years ago goes from 26.515-28.045. I have not looked at the mod done in it so I can't say. My Xl however was modded w/ a xtal and it has the same range as my base. |
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