| Author |
Message |
    
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 120
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 2:31 pm: | 
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Hi. Where or how do I actually mount the actual ground wire to on the antenna (IMAX 2000)? Is there a bolt I put it on? Do I need to sand down the point it gets connected to?
Also, what kind of ground wire, and where do I buy it from? Thanks. |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1434
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 2:54 pm: |
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You can put it on the u-clamps that hold
the Imax to the mast to ground.
Or place a short heavy copper wire or strap from the U-bolts to the mast. Then another wire or
strap attached to the bottom of the mast to ground. Good luck with your install! |
Wally38
Intermediate Member
Username: Wally38
Post Number: 102
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 6:50 pm: |
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Good question. I'd like to know the same thing. I'm not sure how to ground everything either. And what with. |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1586
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 6:19 pm: |
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copper braid is best, so if you have a spare long section of RG8, you could use the braid from it.
heavy gauge solid copper wire will work well. insulated is better.
use 6ga. or bigger.
attach the wire to one of the u-bolts that holds the antenna to the mast.
run the wire straight down the mast to the ground rod.
from there, run a wire to the ground rod that is right outside the shack.
that groundrod should be connected to your equipment with a piece of wire less than 6 feet long.
then run a wire from the shack ground rod to the ground wire at the main AC breaker box for the house.
thats a single point ground.
i would use 4ga. solid copper wire that is insulated.
you can buy rolls of it at lowes or home depot.
always use the proper brass grounding clamps for connecting the wire to the ground rods.
they are in the electrical supply isle in the hardware store.
soldering the connections is preferred if possible to prevent corrosion.
good luck,
matt |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1441
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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Why use insulated wire Kid? That possibly could
add resistance to the path you want the strike energy to travel. Use Bare copper wire. |
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 121
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 10:55 pm: |
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How do i actually attatch the wire to the u bolts at the antenna? IS there a special plug or crimp plug that the copper wire gets attatched to which then in turn gets attatched to the bolt/nut on the u bolt?
Wouldn't soldering the copper wire be bad because mixing 2 types of metals and they may breakdown quicker?
Thanks. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9993
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 8:23 am: |
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Jameslarsen,
Get 2 extra regular washer's and 1 lock washer and 1 extra nut and run the wire or braided copper around 1 leg of the U bolt sticking out and bend it around the bolt and between the 2 extra washer's and then slide lock washer over bolt apply extra nut and tighten.
You can also use a copper battery cable with two eylets(ends) already installed from any auto store to make things easy.
Apply (Penetrox or Noalox) and you are finished. 
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Tech833
Moderator
Username: Tech833
Post Number: 1351
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 11:24 am: |
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The best way to do this is use copper strap. Drill a hole in the strap the same size as your U-bolts (the same ones that mount the antenna to the mast). Sandwich the strap between a couple washers on one of your U-bolts and run the strap stright down to the ground rod. If you have dis-similar metals touching each other, use some Penetrox in the joint.
Second best bet is large diameter, solid bare copper wire. Same deal applies, only you can use a crimp lug or wrap the wire around the U-bolt and sandwich between two washers.
Third is to use smaller diameter solid bare copper wire.
Forth is to use large diameter solid jacketed copper wire.
Fifth is to use large diameter stranded jacketed copper wire.
Sixth is to use braid.
On and on... |
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 124
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 11:43 am: |
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Penetrox? Where do i buy that? does Home depot sell that stuff? How does Penetrox help with 2 dissimiliar metals touching? Thanks for the info. |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 9999
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 1:53 pm: |
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Jameslarson,
PENETROX oxide-inhibiting compounds produce low initial contact resistance, seal out air and moisture, prevent oxidation or corrosion, exhibit superior weathering characteristics, are usable over wide temperature ranges, and provide a high conductivity "gas-tight" joint. All PENETROX compounds contain homogeneously suspended particles. The particles assist in penetrating thin oxide films, act as electrical "bridges" between conductor strands, aid in gripping conductor, improve electrical conductivity and enhance integrity of the connection. The specially formulated PENETROX compounds are for use with compression and bolted connectors providing an improved service life for both copper and aluminum connections. Additionally, the non toxic compounds are an excellent lubricant for threaded applications reducing galling and seizing.
Check you local Electrical Contractors or supply houses or Lowes, Home Depot or Menards.
Hope this help's,
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Jameslarson
Intermediate Member
Username: Jameslarson
Post Number: 126
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 2:01 pm: |
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Wow. That was informative. I tell ya, you guys are the best. I would buy you lunch if I could. Another question, ;-).
You mention I can use solid bare copper wire and use a crimp lug. OK, I understand that I put this thick 4 gauge thick solid copper wire in the lug and crimp. BUT, where do I find this lug? and where do I find a crimper that I can have enough leverage and force to squeeze down on this thick wire? Also, would an insulated 4 gauge solid copper wire be better than non-insulated? If not, why not? Thanks. |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1447
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 4:36 pm: |
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Jameslarson, Tech 833 mentions above for
his second choice, use large diameter solid
bare copper wire. It can also be wrapped
around the u-bolt and sandwiched between the
washers. If you don't want to mess with lugs
and crimping, just do that.But, secure it tightly so it doesn't come off on you. Maybe use larger washers. That's up to you.
Never tried to lug one myself, so, i don't
know what's involved.
Since your installation will be very high and
very hard to do maintenance on your grounding
wire now and then ( taking off corrosion).
Not sure what to say about using insulated wire.
Insulated wire may show a resistance to the strike energy, but, would keep corrosion from
building up. Good question....Hummm |
Dale
Intermediate Member
Username: Dale
Post Number: 380
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 8:45 pm: |
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i use #4bare copper wire .very stiff to wrap around a bolt ..can be done though i did.was thinking of switching though to 1inch braided copper straps not sure now though if its the best was told it was better than bare copper wire |
Tech808
Moderator
Username: Tech808
Post Number: 10007
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 8:56 pm: |
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Dale,
From Tech833's post above.
The best way to do this is use copper strap. Drill a hole in the strap the same size as your U-bolts (the same ones that mount the antenna to the mast). Sandwich the strap between a couple washers on one of your U-bolts and run the strap stright down to the ground rod. If you have dis-similar metals touching each other, use some Penetrox in the joint.
Second best bet is large diameter, solid bare copper wire. Same deal applies, only you can use a crimp lug or wrap the wire around the U-bolt and sandwich between two washers.
Third is to use smaller diameter solid bare copper wire.
Forth is to use large diameter solid jacketed copper wire.
Fifth is to use large diameter stranded jacketed copper wire.
Sixth is to use braid.
On and on...
Hope this help's,
Lon
Tech808
CEF808
N9CEF
CVC#2 |
Kid_vicious
Senior Member
Username: Kid_vicious
Post Number: 1601
Registered: 9-2004
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 11:49 pm: |
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road warrior, i was only mentioning the insulation because of exposure to the elements.
i guess i must've forgotten one of 833's rules.
doh!
thanks for the clarification.
jameslarson, as you can see, we all look to tech833 when we need a definitive answer, and if he says we shouldn't do it; we don't do it.
(most of the time LOL!)
i think i unserstand your confusion here, and maybe i can help.
soldering the copper wire to a copper ground rod is OK.
soldering the copper wire to your U-bolt on the mast is not OK.
you are right about dissimilar metals.
dont crimp the lug on the solid, bare, copper wire; solder it. get a 100w gun and you should be fine.
you can find the big lugs at some auto parts stores in the car stereo section, or at most car stereo shops.
i think you can get the penetrox at lowes.
very important to use that on the antenna end, as you wont want to have to get to it later.
also use some penetrox on the coax cable end going into the antenna.
good luck,
matt |
Wally38
Intermediate Member
Username: Wally38
Post Number: 103
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2006 - 11:58 pm: |
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Will this get rid of interference over the TV etc? My wife says she can hear me plain as day over the TV. Even if she's watching DVD's. I have a TVI filter, but it doesn't help. |
Dale
Intermediate Member
Username: Dale
Post Number: 381
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 7:36 am: |
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in my experiece grounding my antenna helped but didnt torallyt eliminate it |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1448
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 8:19 am: |
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Personally i would be afraid to solder anything
that had to do with lightning protection.
The strike energy heat would turn the solder into
liquid, you would think that the connection
would then be lost. (ground-rods ect.)
What do you guys think? |
Tech833
Moderator
Username: Tech833
Post Number: 1353
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 10:03 am: |
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RW- The most common way to do this for lightning protection is to crimp (or clamp) AND solder.
Using a solder lug is O.K. as long as the copper is securely crimped first, and the lug itself is also copper. |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1450
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 8:32 am: |
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WALLY38,do you have cable or antenna on your
TV??? Try this: unhook your DVD player/VCR
from TV. Do you still come over your TV?
You should always have everything grounded
properly. Will grounding stop it, i can not
say for sure. Maybe start a new thread WALLY
with all the details on your problem... |
Road_warrior
Senior Member
Username: Road_warrior
Post Number: 1453
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 3:24 pm: |
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Thanks Tech 833.  |
