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Message |
    
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1588
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 8:59 pm: | 
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The builder of the Predator antenna applies a greasy substance to all threads and connections called an anti-sieze compound to eliminate electrolysis. OK, What is this goo called so I can find some to re-apply when needed? Would any type of anti-sieze compound work? Also can someone tell me what electrolysis is and why I do not want it to happen to my antenna? hotwire |
Moonraker
Intermediate Member
Username: Moonraker
Post Number: 237
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 9:32 pm: |
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I’m sure dielectric grease that you get at the auto parts store would work. You said it is an anti-seize compound. This can also be picked up at the part store, it is used for lubricating threads on exhaust manifold bolts, spark plugs on aluminum heads and other things that go through extreme temperatures to keep the threads from seizing. I would think the dielectric grease would be best for an antenna but that’s only my opinion.
Electrolysis is erosion of metal caused by an electric current, but I think two pieces of metal have to be separated by water (rain) or another liquid to allow the particles to move from one piece to another depending on polarity.
Or they could simply mean to prevent arcing between connections. |
Hollowpoint445
Senior Member
Username: Hollowpoint445
Post Number: 1313
Registered: 6-2004
| | Posted on Monday, July 24, 2006 - 10:47 am: |
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I think I'd use Penetrox or some other commercial electrical anti-ox compound because it's conductive, and you always want as good an electrical connection as possible. You can buy them at any home center with an electrical department.
Electrolysis can happen metal to metal as well - as long as they are dissimilar metals. The farther apart they are on the glavanic index, the faster electrolysis will happen. The presence of an electrolyte (salt water or even rain water) accelerates the process because it makes greater surface contact and the electrons are free to flow from metal to metal then.
You don't want electrolysis to happen because it causes a high impedance pathway, and would make your antenna stop working. That's why nearly all coaxial connectors are nickel plated - so the metals are so similar that electrolysis is much less likely.
I always wonder why folks insist on using copper wire for grounding when nearly all base antennas are made of aluminum at their mounting point. Aluminum is a much better choice. It's also a much better choice for grounding your tower or mounting pole which are usually galvanized steel. TV antennas and mounting poles are nearly always grounded with aluminum ground wire which is very close on the galvanic index to zinc - the metal used in glavanizing steel. |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1590
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Monday, July 24, 2006 - 1:05 pm: |
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Ok thanks for the lesson guys! Will look for Penetrox or similar compound. |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 689
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 11:16 pm: |
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Hotwire, If its not too late look for "copper coat" Its a copper based anti-seize lubricant.
You might like that for your threads.
One other tip. Moonraker mentioned a dielectric grease. This is the clear NON hardening waterproof lube you'll see when you unplug your cars electrical harness(es) and most times spark plug boots. Pickup a small tube of that stuff and shmooze some into the 10K's lower section where the stinger drops in. It'll help keep rain water from getting in and playing mind games with you if you like to monitor SWR like me...can't get enough stress I tell ya!
I even went so far as to get a (9/16""?) rubber vacuum cap and pinholed the top. Again shmooze the dielectric in the mast then squeeze a little into the rubber cap/boot. Leave the allen set screw out of the mast for now...squeeze boot over mast top then SLOWLY push the stinger through the pinhole in the boot and into the mast WHILE holding down the boot. The "rain cap" will end up secure but hydraulic pressure caused by YOU displacing the dielectric WILL want to pop it off!..Instead you'll have it ooze out of set screw hole...oh yea...your waterproof now!
Reinstall set screw and set SWR...hope this helps 
Hank CEF559 |
Mikefromms
Advanced Member
Username: Mikefromms
Post Number: 915
Registered: 6-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 12:44 pm: |
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I like that Omega Force picture, VanillaGorilla. Don't you wish they'd make a base version of that radio with a big fat round-type s-meter? This would be the ulitimate Cb base radio. Of course the price should be kept under $400.
Mikefromms |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1603
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 1:14 pm: |
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VanillaGorilla, EXCELLENT idea man. No its not to late at all. I just ordered yesterday a brand new 27 inch shaft single coil Predator!!!!OH YEAH! The Wire has got it going on now! |
Vanillagorilla
Advanced Member
Username: Vanillagorilla
Post Number: 697
Registered: 4-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 11:44 pm: |
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Mike..actually its a Delta..but YES! I'd LOVE to see a base version of either from Magnum!
Hotwire...
Good luck wire..won't regret it!
Thought you already had a 10k though?
Not gonna put one on the trunk and one on the hood are ya? Go Ken-ny Go Ke-ny its ya Birthday..its ya birthday 
Hank |
Hotwire
Senior Member
Username: Hotwire
Post Number: 1613
Registered: 1-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 11:53 am: |
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Yeah Hank I already have the 17 inch shaft single coil Predator.I NEED a 27 incher to make the height on my car just over 12 feet! You know how it is. Can never have to many Predators! Probably set the 17 inch one up in the shack to stare at and use as a backup in case someone thieves the one on the car. |
